Who Chooses Clothes for Actors?
Clothing is an integral part of storytelling in film and television. What an actor wears can convey character traits, cultural background, social status, and even time periods. The role of costume design is vital in crafting a character’s identity and the world they inhabit. But who exactly is responsible for choosing the clothes that actors wear? This article explores the profession behind the clothes—costume designers—and the collaborative processes involved in selecting clothing for actors, with examples of iconic costumes and the creative minds behind them.
The Role of Costume Designers
At the heart of the process of choosing clothes for actors is the costume designer. Costume designers are responsible for creating the wardrobe for the cast, ensuring that the clothing fits the character, the story, and the setting. Their job is to visually communicate a character’s personality, background, and emotional journey through their clothing.
Costume designers must take into account various factors when designing the wardrobe for a film or television show. These factors include the period in which the story is set (historical or contemporary), the physical characteristics of the actor (such as body shape and comfort), the themes of the story, and the director’s vision. Additionally, the designer must consider the functionality of the clothing—whether it is appropriate for the scenes and settings in which the actor will be performing.
For example, in the 2019 film Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, costume designer Arianne Phillips created an iconic wardrobe for the lead actors, Leonardo DiCaprio and Brad Pitt, that reflected their characters’ personalities and roles within the Hollywood system of the late 1960s. DiCaprio’s character, Rick Dalton, was dressed in outfits that showed his fading star status, while Pitt’s character, Cliff Booth, wore relaxed, utilitarian clothing that mirrored his no-nonsense persona. Phillips’ designs were not only historically accurate but also essential in giving depth to the characters, showing their world and time without a word of dialogue.
The Collaborative Process
While costume designers play a central role in choosing clothes for actors, they are not working alone. Creating a wardrobe for a film or TV show is a highly collaborative process that involves multiple departments working together to achieve the desired look.
Director’s Vision
One of the most important collaborators in the costume selection process is the director. The director provides guidance on the overall aesthetic of the film and helps shape the visual tone, and the costume designer must interpret this vision through the characters’ clothing. The director’s input is often crucial in understanding how a character should be portrayed through their wardrobe.
Take, for example, The Great Gatsby (2013), where director Baz Luhrmann and costume designer Catherine Martin worked closely together to create the film’s opulent, 1920s-inspired costumes. Luhrmann, known for his visually bold and stylized films, wanted the costumes to reflect the extravagant world of Jay Gatsby, played by Leonardo DiCaprio. Martin, who won an Academy Award for her work on the film, designed costumes that blended the era’s fashion with modern elements to create a visually striking look. The result was a mix of 1920s glamour with contemporary sensibilities, which was a key part of the film’s lavish, dreamlike quality.
Production Designer
Another important collaborator is the production designer. While the costume designer focuses on clothing, the production designer is responsible for the look of the entire set and the physical environment in which the actors will perform. The production designer and costume designer must coordinate their efforts to ensure that the actor’s clothing complements the sets, props, and overall atmosphere of the film.
For example, in The Lord of the Rings trilogy, costume designer Ngila Dickson worked alongside production designer Grant Major to ensure that the costumes, sets, and props of Middle-earth felt cohesive. The costumes for characters like Aragorn and Frodo were designed to reflect the natural, rugged environment of the world they inhabited, while the regal clothing of characters like Elrond and Galadriel complemented the ethereal, grandiose sets created by Major. The collaboration between Dickson and Major was key to making the world of Middle-earth feel authentic and immersive.
Actors’ Input
While the costume designer is the primary person responsible for choosing the clothes for actors, the actors themselves often have input into the process. Actors work closely with costume designers to ensure that the clothes they wear are comfortable and help them embody their characters. This collaboration can also involve adjusting the fit, color, or style of the clothes to suit the actor’s body and personal preferences.
In Wonder Woman (2017), Gal Gadot, who portrayed the titular character, worked closely with costume designer Lindy Hemming to perfect the iconic armor worn by the superhero. Hemming’s design for Wonder Woman’s armor was both functional and symbolic, showcasing her strength and warrior identity. Gadot was involved in the process, ensuring the armor fit her comfortably, allowing her to perform stunts and action sequences with ease.
Actors’ input in costume selection can also extend to smaller details, such as accessories, hair, and makeup. In some cases, actors may wear items of clothing that reflect their personal style or add something extra to the character. For example, in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961), Audrey Hepburn’s character, Holly Golightly, is seen wearing a stunning black dress designed by Hubert de Givenchy, a long-time collaborator of Hepburn’s. Hepburn’s personal relationship with the designer and her input into the final look played a key role in the creation of one of the most iconic costumes in cinema history.
Iconic Costume Designers and Their Contributions
Several costume designers have made an indelible mark on the film industry, known for their creative vision, skillful execution, and ability to bring characters to life through clothing. These designers have created some of the most memorable looks in film history.
Edith Head
One of the most famous costume designers in Hollywood history is Edith Head, who worked on over 1,000 films during her career. Head won eight Academy Awards for Best Costume Design, and her work became synonymous with the glamour and sophistication of Golden Age Hollywood. Head designed iconic costumes for films such as Rear Window (1954), The Birds (1963), and All About Eve (1950). Her sharp eye for detail and ability to design clothing that suited the actor’s body and character helped solidify her legacy as one of the greatest costume designers in film history.
In Rear Window, Head designed Grace Kelly’s elegant wardrobe, including the famous Edith Head-designed gown worn during the film’s climactic scenes. The costumes not only fit Kelly’s character—an elegant, poised socialite—but also highlighted her beauty and sophisticated charm.
Colleen Atwood
Colleen Atwood is another influential costume designer known for her work on films such as Edward Scissorhands (1990), Chicago (2002), and Alice in Wonderland (2010). Atwood has won four Academy Awards for Best Costume Design and is renowned for her ability to craft visually striking and imaginative costumes.
In Edward Scissorhands, Atwood created the eccentric, otherworldly wardrobe for Johnny Depp’s character, Edward. The character’s costume, consisting of a patchwork leather outfit and scissor-like hands, visually conveyed his unique and misunderstood nature. Atwood’s attention to detail and creative choices helped bring Edward’s fantastical world to life, making him one of cinema’s most beloved characters.
Sandy Powell
Sandy Powell is another celebrated costume designer with a long list of film credits, including The Aviator (2004), Shakespeare in Love (1998), and Cinderella (2015). Powell’s work is known for its versatility, with her designs ranging from historical accuracy to fantastical imagination. She has won three Academy Awards for Best Costume Design.
In Cinderella, Powell designed the iconic blue ballgown worn by Lily James’s Cinderella. The gown became a symbol of the character’s transformation from a mistreated servant to a radiant princess. Powell’s costume design played a key role in this transformation, helping to reinforce the film’s themes of inner beauty and self-worth.
Conclusion
Choosing clothes for actors is a complex and collaborative process that involves costume designers, directors, actors, and production teams. Costume designers play the primary role in selecting the wardrobe that will define a character’s identity and contribute to the storytelling. Their work is an essential part of film and television, as clothing not only helps shape the audience’s perception of the character but also enhances the overall visual impact of the story.
Through a close collaboration with directors, production designers, and actors, costume designers are able to craft wardrobes that bring characters to life in a way that enhances the narrative and emotional resonance of the film. Whether it’s a stunning ballgown, an iconic superhero costume, or a simple piece of clothing that speaks volumes about a character’s personality, the clothes that actors wear help make movies unforgettable.
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